Over on our Absolute Michigan web site, we're featuring Leelanau's own National Lakeshore in Dig Michigan: Sleeping Bear Dunes. It begins:
The October 21, 1970 Act of Congress that established the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore declared that "...the Congress finds that certain outstanding natural features, including forests, beaches, dune formations, and ancient glacial phenomena, exist along the mainland shore of Lake Michigan and on certain nearby islands in Benzie and Leelanau Counties, Michigan, and that such features ought to be preserved in their natural setting and protected from developments and uses which would destroy the scenic beauty and natural character of the area."
Before it's all over, you will have hopefully enjoyed the photos, maps and links and checked out 5 "must-do" ways to experience the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. (I'm hoping folks who know and love the Dunes can add many more tips for visitors!)
Check it out - I'm really happy with how it came out!
Photo: canyon of trees by metrolens
The Empire Bluff trail leads walkers on a 1.5 mile round trip hike up to the bluff looking out over Lake Michigan and towards South Bar Lake. When the weather is clear you can see South Manitou Island.
To get more information on the Empire Bluff, you can visit the National Parks Service site here.
Cool things to do: look out for the 6 numbered posts and read in the trail map brochure about that area, make sure to look for old farming equipment from the early settlements, give yourself enough time either before of after your hike to stop in the village of Empire and enjoy a nice refreshing drink and a look around the town.
DO NOT DESCEND THE BLUFF - It looks like fun, but in order to protect the bluff from erosion it is best to stay at the top (and it is really, really, really hard to get back up).
Since the 1800s this island has been a popular harbor and fueling station. By the late 1840s there were piers on both the eastern and western sides of the island. The steamers traveling to and from Chicago and the Straits of Mackinac stopped at these piers to refuel. The island was inhabited for a time. Today North Manitou Island (like South Manitou Island) is an uninhabited island just off the coast of western Leelanau County. Since the mid 1800s families have lived on the island, remnants of their farms still survive and there is a cemetery at the southeast edge of the island. The village is composed of houses which were summer houses or hunting lodges. There are many miles of trail over the island and wilderness camping is allowed on the island.
Cool things to do: hike, swim, fish, check out the abandoned buildings - they are dangerous to go in.
Watch out for Poison Ivy! A way to help remember about Poison Ivy is this little rhyme: Leaves of three, let it be. Before you go check out Wikipedia: Poison Ivy to learn more about it. The Poison Ivy in Leelanau County is normally ground cover and not a shrub. As long as you do not touch the Poison Ivy you will be fine.
How to reach the island: you can take a personal boat or take the Manitou Transit, Manitou Transit only drops people off and picks them up, they do not stay at the island in order to pick passengers up later that day, if you go to the island plan on camping.
The Grand Traverse Lighthouse is located inside of the Leelanau State Park on the Lake Michigan shoreline at the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula. The lighthouse was occupied by the U.S. Coast Guard from 1941 until it was closed in 1972. It has since been restored to resemble the keeper's house of the 1920's and 1930's. The Lighthouse and Fog Signal Building both have exhibits on the maritime history of the area.
Cool things to do: check out the exhibits on shipwrecks and local history. Climb the tower and look at Lake Michigan and the northern Leelanau Peninsula. Listen to the restored air diaphone foghorn every Saturday. There are 8 1/2 miles of hiking and skiing trails, with picnic areas and a scenic overlook. There is alot do here.
There is also the Volunteer Lighthouse Keeper Program at The Grand Traverse Lighthouse which provides the perfect opportunity for people who love lighthouses. From April through December, you can spend one or two rewarding weeks staying in the lighthouse as a lighthouse keeper.
Fishtown is a historic 100 year old fishing village located in Leland. In the 1930s fishing reached its peak and quickly declined due to overfishing. Although Fishtown may not still be home to as large a fishing community as previously, it is home to many charter fishermen, Carlson's fishery, the only ferries to the Manitou Islands and a wide variety of shops.
Cool things to do: take a ferry to the Manitou Islands with Manitou Island Transit, shop in the old fish shanties, buy fish from the 5 generation old Carlson family fishery, look for fish in the Carp River, and eat a sandwich from The Village Cheese Shanty.
Read about Leland at Leelanau.com's Leelanau on Location.
Glen Arbor is located on a small strip of land between Glen Lake and Lake Michigan in the heart of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Glen Lake's natural beauty attracts visitors throughout the summer. Considered one of the most beautiful lakes in the entire state, local legend says that Glen Lake was recognized as "the most beautiful lake in the world" by National Geographic Magazine (though the magazine denies ever having published such a ranking).
Glen Arbor was first settled around 1848 when John LaRue moved from South Manitou Island in order to set up a trading post on the Sleeping Bear Bay. As other families moved into the area a wooding station was built to provide fuel for passing steamers. In 1856 a dock was built to aid in the loading of the steamers, which soon became known as the Central Dock. By 1868 the township of Glen Arbor had 200 people, three docks, two hotels, four stores, a blacksmith shop, and a copper shop. The Empire and Southeastern Railroad stopped in Empire just a few miles away, providing transportation to the area. It is said that before the 1900s there were numerous cranberry bogs along the banks of the Crystal River. The Crystal River runs from Little Fisher Lake to Lake Michigan. Signs of the old cranberry bogs can still be seen along the banks of the river.
Kayaks or canoes are available to rent from several businesses along the Crystal. If you are feeling really adventurous, either paddle around Glen Lake, or begin your expedition in Big Glen Lake, paddle through Big Fisher, then Little Fisher, then follow the Crystal River all the way to Lake Michigan. The famous Dune Climb is just minutes away from Glen Arbor, and there you can climb up the 150 foot dune.
If a less crowded hike is more to your liking then head on over to Glen Haven for the Sleeping Bear Point Trail. The Glen Arbor area has years and years of history and much can be found at the village of Glen Haven, which has been renovated to look like the town did in the 1920s. The historic Sleeping Bear Point Lifesaving Station, which was built in 1901, can be found just minutes from Glen Haven.
Glen Arbor Links
Photo: Atop the Dunes by Andy McFarlane
Glen Haven was first founded as a wooding station to provide fuel for the passing steamers. In 1857 a sawmill and an inn were built on the beach west of Glen Arbor by Charles C. McCarty, brother in law of John E. Fisher, the founder of Glen Arbor. McCarty called the area Sleeping Bearville. In 1865 a dock and the Sleeping Bear Inn were built. The Inn was used as a boarding house for lumberjacks and passengers. In 1868 McCarty built a sawmill on Little Glen Lake. Horses were used to transport the lumber from Glen Lake to Glen Haven. At that time 100 to 300 cords of wood were used by a steamer for a full trip from Chicago to Buffalo. By 1870 a two mile long tramway had been built to transport wood cut by the sawmill of Glen Lake to the docks at Glen Haven. During the winter of 1870-1871 214 people died because of shipwrecks on the Great Lake. In 1871 the U.S. Life-Saving Service was created. The Life-Saving Service conducted rescues from shore. That year the first Life-Saving Station was opened in the area.
In 1878 the President of the Northern Transit Company bought Glen Haven in order to make sure that there would always be a reliable supply of wood for the fleet. At that time D. H. Day moved to Glen Haven as an agent for the Northern Transit Company. In 1881 D. H. Day bought the town of Glen Haven. In 1901 the Sleeping Bear Point Lifesaving Station was built. At that time most of the workers at Glen Haven were of Norwegian and Swedish descent, a small group of workers were from a small Native American settlement a few miles away. As steamships began changing from wood burning to coal burning D. H. Day realized the need to expand his operations and changed his sawmill into a hardwood mill, which sold oak and maple boards to the building industry in Chicago. D. H. Day also promoted managed forests and farming. In 1910 he owned more than 5,000 acres of managed forest and 5,000 cherry and apple trees on his 400 acre farm. In the 1920s the Glen Haven Canning Company began canning and shipping D. H. Day’s fruit. In 1931 the Sleeping Bear Point Lifesaving Station was moved to its present site in order to protect it from the encroaching dunes. That same year the Glen Haven docks were closed. In 1972 the Sleeping Bear Inn closed and the buildings in Glen Haven were purchased by the National Park. Glen Haven has been restored to resemble the town in the 1920s. Just down the road is the Sleeping Bear Point Life Saving Station which has been restored and is now The Sleeping Bear Point Maritime Museum.
Glen Haven Links
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore page on Glen Haven
Photo credit: Glen Haven Canning Co. by cyoas55
Sixty-nine years ago by John Levanen
News from the Week
Stories from the week included a note about the passing of longtime Manitou passage captain George Grosvenor, a look at "berging" the Leland River and a belated story on 2 Leelanau Odyssey of the Mind winners advancing to states.
The Week's Weather
The week's weather is about what you expect for late March - too warm to be winter, to cold for spring.
March 13, 2008: Heavy early morning snow, then cloudy & upper 30s (50/18)
March 14, 2008: Light rain & 40s (44/28)
March 15, 2008: Mostly cloudy, breezy & 30 (33/24)
March 16, 2008: Sunny & 20s (28/8)
March 17, 2008: Sunny & low 30s (36/18)
March 18, 2008: Flurries & 30s (39/830)
March 19, 2008: Partly sunny & 30s (39/30)
More about the photo: John writes: In 1939 our Leelanau house was about 40 or 45 years old.
It has been through a lot of Michigan winters. The Honke family owned the house back then , I assume one of them took this photograph. He also has a photo of the Honke Family in front of the house in 1918.
Click for the Leelanau news archive from March 2007 and also see the March 2008 page!
Yesterday at The Leland Report Molly Grosvenor wrote:
This morning George Firestone Grosvenor, our Bumpa, passed away. He went peacefully in the company of his children and with the kind assistance of all the great people at Effie's Place. This truly marks the end of an era. I know that many people have a story or two or many about Bumpa. It's great comfort to know that he will live on in these stories... may we all keep telling them. May the seas be calm in heaven! In lieu of flowers donations can be made to the South Manitou Island Memorial Society's project "relight the light" or to Munson Hospice.
You can share your memories here or over at the Leland Report's tribute to George Grosvenor. George captained boats that went to the islands, most recently the Manitou Isle to North Manitou. My favorite tales from him were those of delivering the mail across the ice to the Manitou Islands. He said his dad would tie a rope to him and make him walk in front of the mail truck as they crossed the ice.
Was it true? I don't know but I do know he was a great guy who will be missed.
Photo credit: NMI Pickup by migolfer who writes: North Manitou Island. For those of you old enough to remember the island pickup/dropoff point off the beach by Bourniques. This was before the fancy dock they put in. If the weather was bad, the drop off point was on the south beach off The Big Windfall. The boat is the "Manitou Isle".
